18November1996

Monday 18 November
My dear folks,

Sometimes it all comes just together. Sometimes, like this time, it takes a little more effort. For reasons I don't understand I ran into of one of my rare migraines on Sunday p.m., & had a subdued departure. I got to the airport without any problems & in good time with the assistance of Freglet (looking after the flat) who ran me down to the Air-Bus stop. After checking in, I made myself comfortable but became increasingly puzzled by the failure of the flight to appear on the departure monitors. As I was about to make inquiries, there came "a last call" for the flight over the tannoy. I trooped along the corridors with other intending passengers to the departure lounge where the clerk confessed that Virgin - for it was they - had mistakenly thought that the flight departure details were up on the monitors for all to see. They must have wondered why they had no passengers.

On the plane I found myself seated beside an obese youth, a natural-born slob, who promptly spilled his glass of orange over the pair of us. I could see it coming, twice grabbing the glass from the central arm rest as he got up or down. Third time I was too late. Then as we taxied out the runway, the pilot said they couldn't account for one of the bags that had been loaded in the hold & we would have to return to the bay to check. I was starting to wonder if we were jinxed. But - fingers crossed - that seems to be the end of it. It's now right on 0400 GMT, headache's gone, & through the window I can see the orange glow of an African dawn.

It's my first flight with Virgin, interesting & different. It's non-smoking, which I welcome, & I have the rare luxury of a wide seat. Without it, I'd be crushed up against my fellow traveller in a state of misery & I give thanks for my blessings. The plane is a wide-bodied Airbus, & it appears to be full. I don't know whether this is merely because of the demand for seats on the UK-RSA run or because Virgin is particularly popular. Certainly, its pricing structure is very competitive against BA & SAA, who also fly direct. Virgin does not offer the usual Business & First Class options, preferring Premium Economy (wide seat but no frills) & Upper Class (luxury wide seat with frills), both vastly cheaper than the alternatives.

There are mini-tv monitors built into the arm rests or seatbacks. On these one can select a range of films, tv shows, games & maps. The news, Sky News rather than BBC World, came on shortly after take-off. Later, I watched "Emma" & greatly enjoyed it, although it wasn't the Oscar winning version. My fellow traveller didn’t get beyond the games section, clicking away furiously on the control as he raced cars around a tiny track or led some battling super-hero through a maze of enemies. He seemed to have had plenty of practice.

Witbank: Conal was at the airport to meet me, waiting as patiently for me as I had for my bag for appear on the conveyor belt. Johannesburg airport has grown bigger & smarter since last I saw it, but not faster. He’s acquired a smart Nissan car & we hummed quickly & effortlessly down the motorway to Witbank.

Micaela was waiting at the gates of the house with Rosie & Lily, the family dogs. It’s hard to know from which of them I received the most enthusiastic welcome, being instantly adopted by the two hounds as a member of the family. Rosie, the Rotweiler, is a softie disguised as a canine tank, as long as you’re approved, that is.
It is a reflection on the natural disinclination of the Witbank Bensons to write to other Bensons - their only fault - that I’d never heard of Lily. Lily is a spirited Dalmatian who’s built almost as solidly as Rosie but is both agile & athletic with it. I don’t know whether I’m giving away family secrets when I tell you that until recently, both canines shared Micaela’s bed at night, each of them considerably heavier than she is. They are not pleased to have been relegated to the laundry. You will be aware already of the regime of keys & locks & alarms & cautions that govern living patterns out here. Bren set off the alarm to demonstrate it to me & within five seconds the phone was going as the security company checked it out. You give them the right code number or face men with guns a few seconds later. It’s all very serious.

Bren appeared briefly in his bakkie at lunchtime & disappeared with Conal, leaving the car behind for Micaela & me. She guided me around Witbank, to the post office to post 80 Christmas cards I’d brought over for SA friends, as well as Andre’s trousers; to the bottle store for supplies; to the hardware hypermarket to find a plug compatible with my laptop & to the bank. I wanted to move my SA bank account from Jhb to Witbank & enquired politely how I might go about. It was a freak of luck that I made my enquiry of the most efficient banker in Witbank. There was a flurry of papers & signatures & entering data on computer terminals & it was done. The money was transferred to a new account, I had a new withdrawal card & a pin number to go with it & a handful of R100 notes. I was very impressed & said so. Never seen the likes in Britain.

Conal & Bren got back sixish. Conal showed me around his computer. I’d had the impression - wrong - that he was still in the elementary stages of computing. He’s not only involved in some relatively advanced activities - like programming & designing his own Web page - he’s got more software on his system than fleas on a dog. He loaded on Microsoft Works to enable me to transfer my letters across & print them off. He’s taking regular lessons & obviously learning lots. So we’ll do lots of computer talking but it will be as equals.

Brendan spent an hour before & after dinner, helping Micaela prepare for her biology exam - & another hour on Tuesday morning. He also whipped up an excellent supper. He’s an efficient lad. Afterwards, we sat down over a couple of malt whiskies to catch up on life, watched by Lily from her blanket on the couch. Lily is one of those animals who just can’t help making herself comfortable.

After breakfast, I walked Micaela 100 yards to the convent where she goes to school. There were a few dozen other pupils arriving in their distinctive blue blazers at the same time, all girls & all black. It’s quite striking. Micaela says there are four white girls in her class. Witbank, with its wide avenues, reminds me of the little Canadian & US towns I came across, as least as far as layout is concerned. But you have no doubt when you see the little kaalvoet boere pupils that you’re back in RSA. In many ways it feels as though I never left. I don’t feel the least bit strange or like a foreigner. The only weird experience I’ve had is watching BBC World TV, one of several channels available on their cable service. I know that I’m supposed to be in the newsroom that I can see behind the presenter rather than watching it from the other side of the world.

Sufficient unto the hour.
It’s lovely to be here.